Sunday, October 10, 2010

High Holidays in the Holy Land

This post will describe how I spent my first Yom Kippur, Sukkot, and Simchat Torah in Israel.  Please note that Jewish holidays begin at sundown.

Friday, September 17th: 
In Jerusalem on Shabbat, all public transportation stops, there are minimal cars on the roads, and almost all stores and restaurants close.  However, on Yom Kippur, the holiest day of the year, ALL stores and restaurants close, and there are ZERO cars on the streets (besides of course any non-Jewish businesses and people).  Being that this was our first Shabbat on the program, we thought the program organizers would have planned something for us, but this was not the case.  They figured everyone would want to observe Yom Kippur in different ways (some people would be fasting, some would want to be in services all day, and some would want to sleep) and did not want to make anything mandatory as they would do so in future group Shabbatot together.  So a bunch of us took it upon ourselves to plan something.  We all gathered for a pre-fast meal, though it was more of a bring your own food but sit together kind of thing.  Then, a group of us walked to the Kotel (Western Wall).  The walk took around 35-45 minutes.  Though I was engaged in some conversation during the walk, I also used this time for some self-reflection.  I thought about the year past and the year coming, my family and friends, and how amazing it is that I am finally in Israel for more than just a quick visit.  

Surprisingly, there were not a lot of people at the Kotel.  I guess I had figured that on the holiest day in the Jewish Calendar, everyone would flock to the holiest place in the world for the Jewish people, but I was wrong.  I guess most people preferred to attend services at their respective synagogues.   Regardless, the girls and guys separated and went to our respective sides of the wall.  I went up to the wall, did some prayers (only some because I did not have the appropriate siddur-prayer book- with me) and then sat to listen to the tail end of a sermon that was being given in English to a large group of people.  The man (possibly a rabbi) was standing on a chair on the men's side so that he could be seen and heard by the women as well.  

The next morning I, along with some other WUJS people went to services at Shira Chadasha, an Orthodox Egalitarian congregation (mechitza-partition to divide men and women, but women are able to lead services and read torah) that meets in a local community center.   Unfortunately we went too late, missed the torah service, and services ended pretty early.  I later found out this was because they started at like 7:00am.  Afterwards, I went home and took a nap to pass the time (it's not fun to be awake with not much to do when you're fasting).  I intended to wake up to go to services again, but this did not happen as I wasn't feeling too well.  I regret not waking up and going to the Kotel for the Neila service which concludes Yom Kippur and includes the blowing of the shofar, because apparently it was an amazing experience and there were an insane amount of people there.  I guess I'll just have to come to Israel for another Yom Kippur in the future to experience that.

Wednesday, September 22nd:
As part of the Shabbat B'Yachad (Shabbat together) committee, I helped to organize our first Chag (holiday) together- Sukkot.  Earlier in the week, I helped to decorate our own Sukkah where we would later have our holiday meal.  

Ruth, Ayelet, Yonit, Me, Isaac, and half of Suri - It's not a Sukkah without paper chains!

Nicole's beautiful artwork.  Chag Sameach means Happy Holiday!

Right before the holiday started, our group took a walk to Yemin Moshe, the first neighborhood built outside the walls of the old city.  With a beautiful view of the old city in the distance, we shared some poems and stories related to Sukkot.  
Our group with the Old City in the background
We then went to our Sukkah for a fabulous holiday meal prepared by all of us.  I made an apple kugel using my mother's recipe and got lots of compliments!

Apple Kugel before I put it in the oven


I led the Kiddush (blessing over the wine) and during the dinner spoke about a Sukkot custom that I had only recently found out about, Ushpezin.  Ushpezin is the Hebrew word for guests.  It is customary that on each night of Sukkot, we invite one of the seven shepherds of Israel--Abraham, Isaac, Jacob, Moses, Aaron, Joseph, and King David (some traditions include Sarah, Miriam, Devorah, Avigail, Hannah, Huldah, and Esther)--into our Sukkah.  Speaking of guests, my friend Sari joined us for dinner.  Sari is a friend who I met in NY through Livnot U'Lehibanot events.  She is in Jerusalem for her first year of Cantorial school at Hebrew Union College.

The next day, we came together for what was supposed to be some sort of learning seminar, however my committee struggled to agree on something to teach/study and had trouble finding material.  Instead we decided to make this a time when each of us could bring something that we would like to do in the Sukkah.  I brought a book but ended up playing bananagrams (similar to scrabble) with some people.  It was fun but I realized I am not very good at that game. (We actually didn't stay in the Sukkah because it was so hot, and preferred the air conditioning inside... but it's the thought that counts, right?


Later in the week...
I saw a lot of Sukkot living in NYC, especially near my job in Flatbush, Brooklyn, but being in Israel was quite another experience.  Everywhere you go, you see Sukkot.  Restaurant outdoor seating as well as apartment balconies and rooftops each turn into a Sukkah.  
Restaurant Sukkah in Mamilla Mall
Rooftop Sukkah in Yemin Moshe
Another rooftop sukkah in Yemin Moshe
Yemin Moshe Sukkah

One night, a bunch of us went to a Sukkot Festival in Safra Square.  The theme of the evening was 25 years of Ethiopian Jewry in Israel.  There were crafts and artwork made by Ethiopian people as well as a wonderful concert featuring a variety of performers.  
Huge Municipal Sukkah
Beautifully decorated ceiling
Inside the Sukkah
spontaneous drum/dance circle (hard to capture but it was pretty cool- people of all ages were dancing)
Ayala Ingedsat (1st Ethiopian born Israeli singer to get a major record deal) & Shiri Maimon (runner up on Israel's version of American Idol)


Wednesday, September 29th
In Israel, Shemini Atzeret and Simchat Torah fall on the same day.  For an explanation on why this is the case, click this link.  To celebrate the holiday, a bunch of us decided to do some synagogue hopping in our neighborhood.  We started at Shira Chadasha where I had attended services for Yom Kippur.  We jumped right into the many circles of women singing and dancing with Torahs, as this holiday celebrates the end of the cycle of reading the Torah and the start of the new cycle.  After a few Hakafot (rounds) and a brief moment during which I held the Torah, we ventured to another synagogue, Yakar, in the nearby neighborhood of Katamon.  We caught the final Hakafa (there are 7) which was outside in the streets (reminiscent of my past few Simchat Torahs on the Upper West Side of Manhattan).  We also got to hear the torah reading, though it was a little difficult to hear/see/pay attention with the mechitza (partition) because in this synagogue, the torah reader was not in view of the women's side.  The next night, after the holiday ended, the celebrations continued in the streets of Jerusalem.


Josh jumped into the circle of men dancing in the streets



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